Patrick Moser is professor of writing and French at Drury University. He is the author of Surf and Rescue: George Freeth and the Birth of California Beach Culture and the editor of Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing.
Description
Acknowledgements A Note on Hawaiian Language Introduction Prologue: California Beach Culture in the 1920s--The Decade of Duke Part I. The Builders The Dreamer The Photographer The Waterman The Waterwoman The Traveler Part II. The Beaches Palos Verdes San Onofre Malibu Part III. The Dream Hawaiian Surfboard and the Writing of Surf History Epilogue: California Beach Culture during World War II Notes Bibliography Index
"Moser challenges conventional surf historiography in ways that are desperately needed. Mainstream surf narratives frequently point out the influence of Native Hawaiian culture on California surf culture, but typically without critical analysis. Moser upends these narratives by bringing in Indigenous scholarly perspectives to explain the dynamics of cultural appropriation in a refreshingly updated approach."--Dina Gilio-Whitaker, author of As Long as Grass Grows: The Indigenous Fight for Environmental Justice from Colonization to Standing Rock