Contents 1. According to the Customer's Desire: The First Delicatessens in Eastern Europe and the United States 000 2. From a Sandwich to a National Institution: Delicatessens in the Jazz Age and the Interwar Era 000 3. Send a Salami: Delicatessens during the Second World War and the Postwar Exodus from New York 000 4. Miss Hebrew National Salami: The Movement to the Suburbs and the Decline of the Deli 000 Conclusion: The Contemporary Jewish Deli-Whistling Past the Graveyard 000 Preface AlwAys left wAnting More z xi z Acknowledgments z xv z Introduction the PlAce where everyone Knows your nAMe z 1 z 3 9 1 0 4 According to the Customer's Desire the first DelicAtessens in eAstern euroPe AnD the uniteD stAtes z 17 z 3 9 2 0 4 From a Sandwich to a National Institution DelicAtessens in the JAzz Age AnD the interwAr erA z 53 z 3 9 3 0 4Send a SalamiDelicatessens During the seconD WorlD War anD the PostWar exoDus from neW Yorkz 91