Detours

Vernadette VicuNa Gonzalez is Associate Professor of American Studies at the University of Hawai'i at Manoa and author of Securing Paradise: Tourism and Militarism in Hawai'i and the Philippines, also published by Duke University Press. Hokulani K. Aikau is Professor of Indigenous Governance at the University of Victoria and author of A Chosen People, a Promised Land: Mormonism and Race in Hawai'i.

Acknowledgements xiii Introduction 1 Part 1. Wahi Pana / Storied Places 15 Only Twenty Ahupua'a Away 19 Ha-makua 26 He Mo'olelo no Pa'auilo: Restor(y)ing 'Aina in a Quiet, Old Plantation Town in Hamakua 28 Ponoiwi 37 Wehe a'ela ka 'Iao ma Haleakala 45 (Locals Will) Remove All Valuables from You Vehicle: The Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens and the Damming of the Waters 50 Finding Direction: Google Mapping the Sacred, Mo'olelo Mapping Wahi Pana in Five Poems 58 Princess Ka'iulani Haunts the Empire of Waikiki 67 Sources of Sustainment: Fort Kamehameha and 'Ahua Point 77 Fantasy Island: From Pineapple Plantation to Tourist Plantation on Lana'i 86 Anini 94 Kahale'ala, Halele'a: Fragrant Joyful Home, a Visit to Anini, Kaua'i 96 Na Pana Kaulana o Keaukaha: The Stories Places of Keaukaha 107 Part II. Hana Lima / Decolonial Projects and Representation 119 Ke Kilohana 123 Aloha is Deoccupied Love 125 Sovereign Spaces: Creating Decolonial Zones through Hula and Mele 132 Settler Colonial Postcards 147 An Island Negotiating a Pathway for Responsible Tourism 153 Ka Hale Ho'ike'ike a Pihopa: A Bishop Museum Love Story 164 Reclaiming the 'Ili of Haukulu and 'Aihulama 173 Keauhou Resort: Rethinking Highest and Best Use 182 'A'ole is Our Refusal 193 "Where are Your Sacred Temples?" Notes on the Struggle for Mauna a Wakea 200 Kuluku Hale in Hana, East Maui: Reviving Traditional Hawaiian House and Heaiu Building 211 Pu'olo Pa'akai: A Bundle of Salt from Pu'olo, Hanapepe, Kaua'i 220 "Welcome to the Future:" Restoring Keawanui Fishpond 230 Part III. Huaka'i / Tours for Transformation 245 The Hawai'i DeTour Project: Demilitarizing Sites and Sights on O'ahu 249 Kanaloa Kaho'olawe: He Wahi Akua / A Sacred Place 261 Fences and Fishing Nets: Conflicting Visions of Stewardship for Ka'ena and Makua 271 Beneath the Touristic Sheen of Waikiki 283 Sakada 293 A Downtown Honolulu and Capital District Decolonial Tour 300 Unearthing 'Auwai and Urban Histories in Kaka'ako 315 Displaced Kaka'ako 326 What's under the Pavement in my Neighborhood, Puowaina 238 Mapping Wonder in Lualualei on theHuaka'i Kako'o no Wai'anae Environmental Justice Bus Tour 340 Part IV. Hawai'i beyond the Big Eight / New mappings 351 Where is Hawai'i? Hawaiian Diaspora and Kuleana 355 We Never Voyage Alone 362 Law of Canoe: Reckoning Colonialism and Criminal Justice in the Pacific 373 Reconnecting with Ancestroial Islands: A Guide to Papahanaumokuakea (the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands) 380 Conclusion: 'A'ole I Pau (Not Yet Finished) 391 Glossary of Terms 393 Select References 405 Contributors 409 Index 417

"This brilliant and beautiful collection-which features interviews, personal essays, collaborative pieces with community elders, family histories, and more-is a rich ethical project that offers so much for so many. Mahalo!" - J. Kehaulani Kauanui, author of (Paradoxes of Hawaiian Sovereignty: Land, Sex, and the Colonial Politics of State Nationalism) "[Detours] seeks to flip travel writing's static script, telling tourists that they are not entitled to all things Hawaiian because the Hawai'i of their imagination is obliterating the Hawai'i of Kanaka Maoli. . . . [Aikau and Gonzalez are] hoping to reach those who intend to become better guests, even if they're in the minority." - Bani Amor (Fodor's Travel) "The stories, art and ideas collected in Detours are a guide to the contributors' connections to Hawaii. As a collective, the stories demonstrate how readers can learn about Hawaii beyond the veneer of tourism, and approach the island-state in a way that honors and reduces harm to the local cultures and communities." - Crystal Paul (Seattle Times) "This important book challenges readers to think critically about the violence of colonialism that is expressed through tourism. . . . Detours is valuable not only to those studying Hawai?i, but more broadly to scholars of indigenous studies and anyone interested in the colonial legacies of tourism. Highly recommended. All levels." - L. Kessler (Choice) "If you know a particularly intuitive traveler, someone who wants to find the hidden histories of a place, the guidebook Detours: A Decolonial Guide to Hawai'i . . . will give them perfect examples of ways to reapproach tourism and travel-in other words, to decolonize their experience." - Kit Dillon (Wirecutter) "By collecting the stories of Kanaka, this guide educates its readers with rich, wise primary sources. It effectively amplifies the voices of those most knowledgeable and does not shy away from harsh facts and truths that are often glossed over. . . . I highly recommend this guide to everyone who has or plans to have contact with Hawai'i. What you learn from reading should impact the way you approach your visit and bring to light new considerations to uphold a pono (just, fitting) experience." - Erica Cheung (International Examiner) "Detours is more than a book. In fact, it may only incidentally be a book. Rather, this collection feels like an extension of Kanaka innovation that reinvents intergenerational knowledge transmission and documentation." - Natchee Blu Barnd (American Indian Culture and Research Journal) "After reading this book, you cannot journey to Hawai'i without a very different way of knowing this place and its people.... Detours sets an important milestone and has made an invaluable contribution to decolonizing tourism." - Freya Higgins-Desbiolles (Journal of Sustainable Tourism) "A fascinating collection, an attempt to use the framework of the travel industry to destabilize the travel industry . . . scraping at the fantasy version of this place to find what's been buried." - Chris Colin (Afar) "As a text that brings together so many voices, Detours is indispensable to scholars in Indigenous studies and Pacific studies, as well as activists and organizers at the intersections of decolonization and demilitarization.... Detours is a critical disruption to business as usual." - Gregory Pomaikai Gushiken (Native American and Indigenous Studies) "With its eclectic collection of stories and histories, Detours reroutes the tourist gaze and offers travelers, scholars, and island residents richly diverse perspectives on Hawai'i." - Kirsten Mollegaard (Journal of American Culture) "It's rare to find such an honest, deeply informative overview of a destination; the Detours guide to Hawaii should be required reading for anyone planning to visit the islands, and the same will surely be true of future Detours issues about other spots." (Conde Nast Traveler)